![]() ![]() Saint-Cyprien looked like a place where we could do that. (Ken is retired.) Our goal was to experience French life through the eyes of the locals, shopping in open-air markets, cooking with seasonal ingredients and communicating with people in their own language. townhouse for the fall and were using the proceeds to live for three months in France while I continued working as a writer. For the second consecutive year, we had rented our Brooklyn, N.Y. On previous trips, that might have merited a “note to file” for a future journey, but on this occasion it was a call to action. ![]() Over a plate of cassoulet – a hearty stew traditionally prepared with beans, duck and sausage – we looked out at the rooftops of Saint-Cyprien and the valley below it and decided that we had stumbled upon the perfect place to experience life in rural France. While exploring the Périgord region of southwestern France last September, my husband, Ken, and I happened upon Saint-Cyprien, parked our rental car alongside the 12th-century church that stands at its highest point and ate lunch across the street on the terrace of the Au Petit Montmartre restaurant. But, other than that, there is little need for clocks, or even a calendar. To find the largest selection of morning bread, it is best to arrive at one of the two local boulangeries before 10 a.m. Most shops close for at least two hours at lunchtime. Yet in this medieval village, on a hillside above the Dordogne River, no one seems to notice. Church bells ring every 30 minutes in Saint-Cyprien, reminding one of how quickly time passes.
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